Home and Away

Take a Wild Ride on 97

OF THE 70 OR SO COUNTRIES I'VE EXPLORED, never have I found a concentration of wildlife equal to that which lurks on the northerly portion of Highway 97. On a recent trip I encountered bison, caribou, moose, deer, black bear, mountain sheep, fox and beaver. Previously I’ve seen wild horses, skunk, porcupine and coyote. None were encountered while peering through a preserve’s protective fence or while whacking through the underbrush: all were spotted from a cushiony car seat and in most cases I had time to shoot the critters with my camera.

Without having safaried in Africa, I dare to say that this is the best place on the planet to have casual encounters with nature’s larger creatures. Deer can be seen almost anywhere (including my yard in Kelowna) while the rarer beasts start populating the roadside just north of Prince George where my first sighting was a mother bear and her furry cub wobbling across Highway 97. The greatest density came north of Fort Nelson where the big boys (bison and caribou) roam at will. This area also provides a home for Stone mountain sheep that are attracted to the roadside where they lick salt left from winter highway maintenance. Moose paddle regularly in roadside bogs while wild horses, on rare occasions, trot into openings.

Highway 97 happens to be the longest north/south highway in North America, stretching all the way from the town of Weed in California to the Yukon border. Take away the wonderful wildlife and you still have, in my opinion, the continent’s most interesting highway. It outpaces the much ballyhooed Route 66 for nostalgia and history. The U.S. portion of 97 features two ghost towns and dozens of dusty villages little changed from the ‘50s. However the best of natural splendour and quirky tourist magnets comes after one heads north from the Okanagan.

Let us take a leisurely drive north and see what this highway offers. First stop: Kamloops. In the Interior’s second largest city you can grasp the scope of feral fauna at its BC Wildlife Park and then go back to the time of steam with a ride on the Heritage Railway’s 1927 Spirit of Kamloops, which might just be robbed by Bill Miner and pals on horseback. Riverside Park, where the North and South Thompson rivers merge, offers free concerts every summer evening and is a Mecca of art and recreation.

After passing Kamloops Lake and viewing the balancing rock at Savona I suggest you speed past the cache of dowdy motels and gas stations known as Cache Creek then stop at the interesting historical museum in Clinton that displays a desk behind which Hanging Judge Matthew Begbie held court. Clinton and 100 Mile House offer up assorted junk and collectible shops for antique seekers and at 108 Mile Heritage Site a restored roadhouse, barn and original log buildings are yours to explore, free of charge. Just north of Clinton take a side road to Painted Chasm, a scaled down Grand Canyon that get no recognition. After 5 km. you’re back on 97.

Williams Lake, at the end of the lake, has a plethora of pleasant parks, but some will be more attracted to its good gas prices, usually 5 cents less than the Okanagan. Quesnel, as well as being a pretty place for an historic riverside stroll, stands as the gateway to Barkerville, the best restored gold mining ghost town in all of creation, although disagreement might come from the citizens of the Yukon’s Dawson City (not to be confused with Dawson Creek, ahead, both named after geologist George Dawson).

On a short detour east to Barkerville, Cottonwood House Historic site provides the best accommodation bargain you are likely to find: camping, a small four-bunk cottage or an historic log cabin, plus breakfast, firewood and a tour of this historic roadhouse settlement, goes for $12 to $40 (that’s per family, not per person).

At nearly 150 years of age the mountain town of Barkerville has an incredible history that includes being burned to the ground and then rebuilt, and having various revivals and desertions. After gold was found in 1862 the population ballooned and it became one of the biggest cities west of Chicago and north of San Francisco.

TO BE CONTINUED: Jim and Lian Couper’s road trip continues in the next issue (October 2010) when they head further north on Hwy 97.

Crusing the Mexican Riviera

WHEN MY FRIEND, Cheryl, called to say she and her husband, Chris, had found an incredible deal for a Mexican cruise vacation, our ears perked up. At a total cost of $511 CDN per person, we were practically salivating. Of course, we’d have to share a stateroom to get that deal, but these veteran cruisers assured us that no one ever spends any time in their room. “The cruise ship is huge,” they said, “You won’t even know we’re there.”

Cheryl’s enthusiasm was wildly contagious and before I could process a single rational thought, I heard myself reading aloud my Mastercard number and telling her to book it.

My husband, Dean and I spent the next four months berating ourselves for the impulsive decision. Sure, we were all good friends, but would we still be friends after sharing a 10 x 13 room for seven days?

We were about to find out...

We boarded Royal Caribbean’s Vision of the Seas at San Pedro pier, south of Los Angeles. The ship boasts a magnificent atrium (called the Centrum). Its centre piece is an outstanding 36-foot high polished metal sculpture, an interpretation of the dancing, sprite-like figure from Shakespeare’s The Tempest.

Comfortable seating areas and a champagne bar beckoned. A grand staircase leading up to the fifth deck and the pursor’s desk, along with two glass fronted elevators added even more elegance. Swept up in the opulence, I felt confident that a small, shared stateroom was a fair trade off for this kind of luxury.

Knowing our luggage was still en-route to our room, or perhaps in a subconscious effort to defer the inevitable, we dawdled in the Champagne bar and the Centrum, taking in all its glory. The extensive use of glass for decorative features, the glass roofs and large windows help create an amazing feeling of space, bringing the views of the outside in. A pianist served up soft melodies on the grand piano.

Eventually, we made our way down the narrow hallway to stateroom 4011. Hesitantly, we swung open the door and moved single file into the room, leaving the one suitcase that wouldn’t fit, in the hall. For a couple, the small inside stateroom is perfect. For four adults it’s a disaster waiting to happen.

Instantly, we knew that our friendship, tested in this way, would surely fail. In a desperate attempt to save our sinking ship called Friendship, Cheryl made a beeline to the Pursor’s desk and Dean began the phone work in two simultaneous, aggressive attempts to get another room – whatever the cost.

Bigger staterooms are available where four will be quite comfortable, but trust us on this: The small stateroom with the Pullman bunks is too small for four adults. Luckily another stateroom was available and Dean and I gladly moved to the eighth deck.

The staterooms sorted, we were free to explore the rest of the ship. It’s huge! 915 feet long, 105.6 feet wide. The Vision of the Seas is twice as wide as Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive and three times as long and twice as high as the “Hollywood” sign. There are 11 passenger decks and capacity for 2435 guests and 742 crew.

Though there is more than one restaurant on board, we enjoyed beautifully presented formal dinners served each evening in the two tiered Aquarius Dining room. Passengers are assigned to dining times, tables and tablemates. Huge windows and a grand staircase create an elegant atmosphere, but it is the staff who make dining aboard a delightful experience.

The second day was spent at sea and provided a perfect opportunity to unwind by the pool and start on my tan - tropical beverage in hand. Drinks are not included in the cost of the cruise, but they’re reasonably priced (about $5 US each, not including the 15 percent mandatory gratuity). Evenings, we usually spent an hour in the Casino Royale before plunking ourselves in the plush velvet seats of the Masquerade Theatre to enjoy performances by The Coasters, some outstanding comedians, and a couple of contemporary musical stage productions.

There’s plenty of other evening entertainment, too, including live music and dancing at the various themed bars and lounges.

It would be impossible to take in all the daytime activities aboard ship. Each morning the Cruise Compass, a daily planner was delivered to our room, listing the activities of the day. To name just a few, there are ping pong tournaments, Spanish classes, cartooning instruction, digital camera seminars, a scrapbook workshop, an ice sculpture demonstration and poolside activities like the belly flop contest.

Our ship boasted two pools (one indoor), 6 whirlpools, a gym, a rock climbing wall, and a day spa. Though we went ashore at every port-of-call, several people stayed aboard to enjoy the ship’s amenities.

Our first port of call was Cabo San Lucas, at the southernmost tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula where the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortés meet. Though Spanish is the official language, English is spoken by most shopkeepers and restaurant staff. The bay is stunning with gorgeous sandy beaches and dramatic rock outcroppings.

The harbour walkway is lovely; we were sidetracked by the sign for the Giggling Marlin, a hot spot famous for its party nights and a hoist that hangs patrons upside down next to a marlin mural (hence the name). It was a little early in the day for gymnastics, so we settled for a Cerveza or two, before hiring a glass bottomed boat to take us to Playa del Amor (Lover’s beach) for an afternoon of snorkelling.

Our next port of call, Mazatlan, is a much larger centre than Cabo San Lucas. There, we hired a taxi – a cross between a volkswagon and a golf cart – to tour the charming and historic sites of the city. We stopped to shop at Mazatlán’s Golden Zone. Though the Mexican and Indian handicrafts are pretty much the same as any shop in Cabos San Lucas, I found the prices in Mazatlan less expensive and the shopkeepers more willing to negotiate. At an open air bistro, we ordered a traditional Mexican meal – with Cerveza - and watched gutsy tourists donning well worn equipment to parasail off the beach.

Ideally, I would have preferred another day at sea, before the third port-of- call, Puerto Vallarta, but since we were there, I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to see the sights The ship docks about three miles north of downtown Puerto Vallarta but private taxis and vans can be easily gotten outside the terminal gate.

We had plenty of choices for shore excursions at all the ports-of-call. We stuck to water sports, but there are jungle tours, Hummer tours, tequila tours, glass factory tours, and whale watching tours. You can take a day sail on a pirate ship or a catamaran, or swim with the dolphins. And of course, there’s always shopping.

At the end of a busy day in port, we returned to the ship for a fantastic meal a great show, and luxurious surroundings.

As the ship sailed back toward Los Angeles, the temperature dropped a bit, triggering an enthusiastic discussion about booking a cruise to Alaska next summer. On the last day, we spent time at the indoor pool, and wandered through the on-board shops, which were surprisingly, reasonably priced.

Arriving back in Los Angeles, some of our fellow cruisers were planning to take a Los Angeles Highlights excursion, to kill some time before their flights back home. We, on the other hand, decided to stay a couple of extra days. Who knew when we’d have the chance to come back? We wanted to eke out few more days of sunshine before returning to the snowy Okanagan.

So, perhaps it wasn’t surprising to receive a phonecall from my friend Cheryl shortly after we arrived home: “Did you know you can get a direct flight from Kelowna to Los Cabos. Do you want to go?

“Do we have to share a room?”
“Of course not.”
And then … before my brain had time to process a single rational thought, I found myself reading aloud my Mastercard number and telling her to book it.